WE are six happy campers on a 6 day trip.
Five are fully grown boys in their mid-late 40's (counting Bruce, who is
so late in his 40's as to be 51), one of whom is a jogger and four others
who managed to smoke an average of an ounce of Bugler between them each
day of the trip. Of these four, two did absolutely nothing to get in shape.
The sixth is Nellie, Russell's 22 year-old daughter who is in her senior year
at ASU and a triathlete training for her first marathon. Nellie's Canyon
experience is limited to hiking up the tower at Desert View. She gets to
go partly because Sumi, who was originally supposed to go, is still recovering
from ankle surgery.
We packed separately and found our packs each weighed between 33 and 35 pounds, without water or food. Fully loaded we must have left the rim with packs weighing in around 50 pounds. Ouch.
An E-Ticket ride. The first 3-1/2 days were spectacular and a constant learning experience. The last 2-1/2 days were typical Tonto hiking followed by the granny crawl in granny low out the Bass. Every little thing learned in all the yearly trips to the Canyon were necessarily applied and we did things we never thought we would (or could). Water management was an issue but, in the end, was never a problem - we drank with abandon, and water was where we had expected, always turning up before it became a real concern. The weather cooperated. Our warmest day was our shortest day on the trail and our longest and most exposed day, when we crossed the Tonto, was mostly cloudy, breezy, and cool. There were two 24+ hour periods between water (day 1 into day 2 and day 4 into day 5). I carried 5 liters full, others up to 8. We had extra canteens all around that could have been used if conditions required. Little doubt that hikers following a week later did not have such good luck from Toltec on.
And getting your ticket punched. We are all in agreement that the first half of this trip is not beginner friendly but can be 'easily' done by a determined beginner in good company. Bruce, Terry, and I have done many trips before. Russell and James came with us last year on the obligatory backcountry introductory hike - the Red Canyon/Tonto/Grandview 'loop'.
Nellie had never hiked in the Canyon, and the hiking sticks she pooh-poohed the day before (that we bought and made her take despite her protests) she broke out and started to learn to use maybe 200 yards down the Bass. The first day she got to camp two hours after the rest of us (her father stayed with her). We were a little concerned. When she arrived we asked her what she thought and were happy/relieved that she was up and excited about the next day's hike! She stuck with it, and kept pace or better (as you may infer we are an incredibly slow bunch of hikers) for the remainder of the trip. That is, except for the last day when she kicked ass and power walked up the trail.
She was in the lead a couple of times, too. The trail/route is frequently not at all obvious and, unfortunately, the times we had to backtrack strictly corresponded to her times at the front. You know how sometimes when you are trudging along you just follow the leader? Luckily she stopped before heading off into the wild blue yonder (or we would have followed her like lemmings) and the last was again first. Pretty comical if you can picture it. She was great to have on the trip and did not complain at all, even with the massive blisters she got because she didn't think it was really necessary to put a few miles on in her new boots before hitting the trail. She soon grasped those lessons experience grants. Before the trip was over she was an expert with the sticks and her shoes were well worn. She is also very good with moleskin.
Group Gear: 2 camp stoves and butane/propane fuel, 2 water filters, 2 amazingly versatile Kelty brand 12' x 12' tarps (about 2 lbs each - they also come in the handy 9' x 9' variety), 2 aluminum pots (including a coffee pot) for boiling water, a medium duty first aid kit, length of climbing rope, 1/2 roll of toilet paper and a packet of moist ass wipes.
Getting to the Bass: Unless you have the need to enter the Village, save
the entrance fee (you have after all paid for your permit and may even be charged
a ridiculous $25 at the Teepee toll booth to drive over a very small corner of
Havasupi land) and take a left at the Moqui Lodge/Apache Riding Stables.
Forest Road 328 is well marked and begins about a quarter mile on. Stay on 328
until you see a large plywood sign pointing out the right turn onto Pasture Wash
Road, which continues to the trailhead.
The road was dry and 4-wheel drive was not necessary. High clearance was.
At the trailhead: Don't even think about camping here.
Instead, reserve area SE1 or SE2 for your first night and have the rim completely to
yourself in one of what have to be the very best car camping sites on the planet.
You can pack your gear here and then take the very short drive to the trailhead and
parking area (SE3) first thing in the morning.
Maps: Explorer's Monument and Havasupai Point.
The Route: A mostly very easy to follow or in places make up as you go route that is by and large an exciting though knee friendly "Walk in the Park". Rated a 7 in difficulty by the Grand Canyon Field Institute. Very little time is spent with substantial elevation changes in the direction opposite of travel.
April 18, night 1: WOW. A few miles east of the Bass trailhead we spent the night camped directly on the rim overlooking Ruby Canyon. Rising above the horizon seventy-five miles to the south east was Humphrey's Peak, snow capped at 12,643'. We put the folding chairs on the edge of the rim, put the beer coolers next to the chairs, cranked the satellite radio and watched the show all afternoon until the sun went down. Yours alone, car camping at its best!
April 19, day 1: WOW. Bass trail to the intersection with the Royal
Arch/Esplanade Route and across the Esplanade platform.
First couple miles were flat as pavement. After that it was a lot of talus and scree
walking. There is one particularly nasty section at the head of the Toltec drainage. Shortly
after that was my third close encounter with a rattlesnake on the trails. This one was
coiled, head up fully loaded and cocked, and tail wagging ferociously. Absolutely
unmistakable sound. I stared into its eyes like a deer in headlights. After gathering
my wits (not) I jumped to the right thinking only of the immediate consequence as opposed to
the consequence one foot to my right. Luckily, my feet were moving so fast they
acted like a propeller and I did not fall off into the Abyss but instead
flew back up and onto the trail several yards back. James has pictures of the snake
but he missed the flight. With hardly an exaggeration this snake was at least 5' long
and 6" in diameter. Or 6' long and 5" in diameter. Whatever. Size matters if you
think you're going to step on it. Dozens and dozens of rattles making noises that
echo throughout the Canyon
(but mostly between your ears) and get your attention as surely as the Sirens. And it
had two venom filled fangs. James moved the snake and we continued on.
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Most time spent at this level ever - miles of Esplanade with miles of views and miles of adventurous detours onto grungy, loose, unstable, and steep talus. Eventually we entered the Royal Arch drainage system beneath Montezuma Point, at a point where we believe in retrospect most others do not. (The Trails Illustrated map - otherwise useless for this hike and therefore left behind - shows the route entering the main drainage between Montezuma Point and Point Huitzil.) Spent the night right about here on a nice grassy knoll (actually, a very nice piece of soft wind-blown dirt covered with rocks at the top of the drainage in a great wide open, looking down the drainage and up into a big, clear sky.) No varmints or scary things. |
 
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April 20, day 2: WOW. Head down the drainage and less than 1/4-mile later
James comes face to face with Royal Arch rattlesnake number two. This one was much
smaller, average size. Mine was bigger. James disagrees.
Route finding here - contouring down up and around Supai ledges and slopes. Finally
came to a pour-off we couldn't get around - it was only about 8 feet or so down into
sand, so we dropped packs and lowered ourselves as much as we could before jumping.
Back in the sandy/rocky drainage we filtered water out of potholes. Lots of Supai
time - a very exciting place to be. Beautiful carved streambed. Lots of up out
and over. Several miles later we came to the end of the Supai (and intersect with
the main drainage?) and a massive pour-off. Did not see a trail out on the right
(we weren't really looking very hard) so we went the left route to the ledge.
Or should I say THE LEDGE.
THE LEDGE is Scary. Adrenaline overdose with the shakes. Sour stomach. First attempt gets both feet on the ledge, then a quick turnaround and a leap back. Better luck next time. If you look at it for long it ain't gonna happen. How the hell can you do this with a pack on? Belayed (such as it was) everyone else across and roped the packs. Nervous, almost hysterical laughter when all are safe on the other side. We could not have done this part without Russell, who several decades ago learned all there really needs to be known about rock climbing in the mountains and canyons of Iowa. ("Just like riding a bike.") Barely enough room for the packs on the other side, and a couple of feet further on was another smaller bulge. Had to belay around that and rope the packs there, too. We all agreed we were happy to have come this way. THE LEDGE is immediately followed by a pretty good scramble down some gnarly talus - and there we were in the Redwall narrows.
Boulder hopped, crawled, jumped, and passed packs somewhere around ten times getting to
the Bright Angel contact. Some of the pack passes were double (and one triple) passes.
After crossing the trail that leads out of the drainage we scrambled down another
bunch of boulders, and continued down a little way. Just as we would have had to pass
packs yet again, we decided we were beat, had had just about enough of pack handling for one day,
and four out of six of us wanted a smoke. We dropped packs and set up camp.
As much as we would have loved to keep passing packs and scramble down the last little bit to camp with the frogs and come back up in the morning, we instead day hiked down to the Royal Arch and the creek (.5 or .75 mile further?) for water and a look over the edge towards Elves Chasm. The last pool before the fall is an especially deep and good one to soak bones and feet in, if a bit cold.
April 21, day 3: WOW. Very steep but short hike up and out of the narrows and onto the very narrow western Tonto platform. Walking on the cliff edge above and heading down the drainage. Around the turn to the right the Canyon opened up and there we were again. Another mile or so walking east and then a steep drop to - the rappel. About 20' of it. Three of us climbed down a knotted rope. The other three actually rappelled. Roped packs down here, and then again in another area right after this which we got down with a not-really-necessary-but-nice rope assist. From there it was a steep rocky no nonsense straight down scramble to Toltec beach.
Unfortunately for us, the Grand Canyon Field Institute was there already (camped
at least - they were all off on a day hike to Elves). After due consideration we
decided against exchanging our aluminum coffee pot and enameled cups for several
complete sets of titanium cookware. We had to continue up-river .25 to .5 mile (a lot longer
and harder than it sounds) to a smaller unnamed beach which, aside from having very
little shade (it was the only really hot day we had) was quite comfortable for us.
Relaxed, washed, pumped water, tried to find shade for the rest of the day, and that
night finished off the bourbon and tequila. Very nice. This area marks the end of
the first granite gorge. Vishnu and granite remnants were present, but by and large river
level here was talus at the bottom of the Tapeats (is that right?).
April 22, day 4: Wake up and hydrate. Hike about a mile 'horizontally' across up over around some very sharp travertine boulders and deposits capable of ripping the soles off your shoes that obscured and even covered the talus under it. Got to the head of a beautiful canyon a short distance shy of Garnet where a lot of rose colored granite was exposed. Mineral water was flowing and the resulting travertine deposits were thick. From there we continued across the travertine to Garnet Canyon. We did not see any water here from the "trail" except for the little that was in potholes.
Hiked nearly vertically up the Tapeats and out of Garnet back to the platform.
Our version of the Death March followed from here across the Tonto to the east
arm of Copper Canyon where we got (another) pretty awesome place to (dry) camp. Along the way most of the cactus were in bloom.
There was some pretty nasty looking stagnant deep green pothole water
in the canyon opposite Walthenberg. So we drank it. We also cooked our dehydrated
meal here and filled up our drinking bottles. We didn't want to carry cooking water
except for next morning's coffee or tea and oatmeal. We left here for the first time
carrying all the water we could hold (but for the reserve canteens previously
mentioned, which we did not need).
Between this canyon and Copper there are several great looking camp sites, perched cliff-side above the river. The closer you get to Copper the fewer the camps, unless you prefer sleeping in a cactus patch, and at some point before turning into Copper if you are interested in stopping for the night and don't want to sleep on the trail you become pretty much committed to continuing on to the Copper head. Once there, the only reasonably comfortable looking place to camp was in the far eastern arm. There is also a pretty well used and substantial ledge slightly up canyon here that will provide secure shelter for a good sized group in the event of weather.
As it turned out the Grand Canyon Field Institute group also camped in Copper. Where we do not know, because we didn't see them that afternoon, night, or the next day either, until we ran into a couple of stragglers at the Bass intersection. They said they hiked down Copper to a mine and camped there. They could not (or maybe would not) say which arm they hiked down. I suspect that they were pretty deep in the arm we camped in, but hiked out at a place lower, which would be why we did not see them. They also found water there - more like mud to hear them tell it but they managed to filter it. (Have since been told that it is possible to hike Copper to the river, and across to Bass.)
April 23, day 5: Hike the remainder of the west Tonto to Bass Canyon.
At the intersection most of the group hiked a ways down the Bass to get more water
from a pothole, and we were again carrying an almost full load of water. Rather
than lug cooking water up Canyon we decided to eat our main meal here and have
another dry camp. By now every pound shed was a noticeable relief. Started the
hike up canyon. At the top of the Bright Angel as the trail ever so slightly
deviated from the near vertical as it headed up the Canyon to the Redwall break
two adult Big Horn rams, one with a nearly full curl and the other not nearly
as old charged up the hill, across the trail, and up the other side. They checked
us out and we checked them out for 5 or more minutes from a distance of maybe 30
yards. They have obviously seen a lot of people before. We left before they did.
The camp spots on the Bright Angel incline are few and far between and there are maybe two small spots established on the contour before the Redwall. We started up the break hoping to find a good spot at the top but there really aren't any. There is no good Redwall platform in the immediate vicinity of the trail that is easy to reach. And we were in no mood or shape to start hiking out the mesa to find one. Plus, four of us wanted to take the extra time to roll a smoke. The Redwall here leads directly into the Supai and both are equally steep. Half way or more up the Supai it was getting dark and we were beat. And four of us wanted another smoke. We split into two groups and (dry) camped. One group camped slightly off the trail (or in my case directly on the trail) in somewhat less than horizontal positions. The second group camped directly and maybe 50 feet and one switchback above us in an area that they said was used by miners before. Over the course of the day we took a couple of hours long breaks. Had we planned instead to make it out of the Canyon this day we easily could have.
April 24, day 6: Up, up and away. Again. Near the top of the Supai
the trail takes a northerly turn and contours as it climbs. Going south again
there is a beautiful campsite shortly before reaching the Esplanade that dangles
over Bass Canyon (below the USGS benchmark). Back at the junction of the Esplanade
Route and the Bass we
retrieved the water and cliff bars we had cached on the way down and enjoyed.
Four of us enjoyed the Marlboro stash. From here the jogger and youngest of us
made it to the rim 45 minutes before the rest of us. Just before I got up they
were treated to a double condor sighting. Out around noon, drive to Williams,
shower, and drink beer. No longer being used to this strange, difficult, and
flat terrain, Russell finally falls down.
Injuries: Aside from the normal aches and pains and assorted scrapes, bruises and cuts, mostly from the boulders in the Narrows and bushes along the Tonto, none. The trip doctor recommends 800mg ibuprofen in the morning followed by 800mg ibuprofen in the evening followed by at least the tequila required to wash them down (one at a time) to minimize, mask, and/or prevent soreness.
Not bad for the wear and tear. 43.5 miles later at the Bass - Royal Arch junction.
From left to right: Ralph, Russell, James, Terry, Bruce and Nellie
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Ralph Carabetta - May, 2004 |